February 2 - March 3, 2005

GUNS

Ahh, yes, guns. This has been a running debate on Eagle's Wings from day one. Beth hates guns, thinks they are dangerous, noisy, ugly things, and wants no part of them. Ken, on the other hand, grew up target shooting, has done some hunting and likes guns. Also he thinks they could be handy a long way from help in the middle of nowhere. So we compromised and took guns.

However, handguns really get the authorities hot and bothered, so we didn't take any of those. Likewise for assault rifles. And a bolt action hunting rifle isn't the thing for close in work (or for long range on a pitching boat).

But Ken decided that we should get a gun that Beth could use, so we got a twenty guage (small size) shotgun that was sized for kids. Beth can shoot it comfortably, but Ken has to twist up like a pretzel to use it. Did we mention that Beth won't touch it?

Small pump shotgun Pump shotgun, sized for midgets.

And then, as we were rushing to leave Newport, Ken discovered that it's not easy to buy buck shot for a twenty guage (since nobody in their right mind hunts deer with such a little gun). So he ended up buying 100 rounds of birdshot.

Ken also threw in a .22 caliber rifle for target practice, and bought one box (500 rounds) of ammunition.

A .22 is a very light gun used for plinking and hunting rodents. .22 caliber rifle

So, anyway we were well equipped to repel boarders, as long as they are rabbits and pheasants.

Officialdom vs. Guns

The U.S. has a very enlightened attitude toward guns, i.e., they let you keep them. Pretty much everwhere else, however officials really don't want you to have guns on your boat, so they take them and lock them up when you check in.

Of course lots of people have told us to lie and say we don't have any guns, but we keep thinking about what happens if somebody finally decides to do a random search. We've heard bad things about third world jails. Anyway, Beth really put her foot down about this one. So we always declare.

Now just having the guns locked up in the police station isn't so bad (although the locked up guns wouldn't help us much against those rabbits and pheasants), but usually the police station isn't in the same building as customs, or even on the same block. So you get a whole extra trip to a whole extra bureacracy, with a whole extra set of forms to fill out and at least an hour extra on each end, clearing in and clearing out.

Also, in a lot of countries you can clear in at one port, sail down the coast exploring other harbors and coves, and then clear out in the last port you come to. Unless, of course, they took your guns in the first port...

But the crowning blow was in the BVIs, where the police are scrupulously honest and conscientious. We made a long trip to the police station and gave them the guns and ammunition. Unfortunately, they needed to know exactly how many cartridges we had given them, so that we could be sure we got them all back.

Policeman counting 500 rounds of ammo So the officer COUNTED ALL 500 ROUNDS of .22 caliber ammo. He was really very nice about it. Took a while.

Of course, Beth anticipated all of these problems (except for the ammo counting), but Ken needed to see it for himself. And Beth was secretly rejoicing that Ken, who can't stand to wait in line for more than 5 seconds, was subjected to torturous bureacracy -- she figured he'd eventually get tired of it.

Conclusion

So the end result of all this is that we usually don't have the guns on board in port, where we might get boarded. Also, most intruders are petty thieves, looking to swipe money or equipment -- we really wouldn't want to shoot them. And if we did shoot them, we'd probably end up in a third world jail.

We can have the guns on passages -- but rabbits and pheasants are land animals. Anybody who tries to board a boat under way on the open ocean, where you can see them coming, is looking for a fight and likely armed to the teeth with things like AK47s. Ken never really figured that guns would help in that kind of situation, unless we had much more serious hardware. Like grenade launchers. But try to get those through customs.

And the guns are a huge hassle at every check in and every check out.

In view of these facts, we took the following steps.

Ken holding .22 one last time Ken fondly caressing his .22.

Ken ready to deep-six the .22 (below left), and Ken empty-handed after throwing the .22 overboard (below right):

Ken getting ready to throw .22 overboard Ken after throwing .22 overboard

Ken ready to deep-six the pump shotgun (below left), and Ken empty-handed after throwing the shotgun overboard (below right):

Ken getting ready to throw shotgun overboard Ken after throwing shotgun overboard

 

Ken also dumped all of the ammo (and no, he didn't count it). Ken disposing of ammo overboard

 

Beth happy to be liberated from guns Beth was very disappointed to lose the guns.

Beth appreciated Ken's desire to protect her and the boat, but hoped we could find a different way.

Ken plans to buy another three or four flare pistols, load them with the biggest, baddest flares he can buy, and hang them in a bandolier by the bed. Anybody who has seen the movie Dead Calm knows this will work great.

We're also working on the mother of all burglar alarms, but more about that in a future update.

Ken with current anti-boarder equipment. Ken with flare pistol and knife, ready to deter would-be boarders

PHYSICAL THERAPY

Carrying some groceries to the dinghy in January, Beth stirred up an old shoulder injury from our backpacking days in California. It's a painful condition that freezes up her neck and shoulder, and it doesn't go away on its own. She saw a massage therapist on her trip back to Chicago, but he didn't have enough time to fix the problem.

So when Beth got back she asked Ken to work on it for her. As ususal, Ken had his own ideas about proper technique.

Beth ready to get massage a la Ken Beth waiting for therapy, with Ken's choice of tools.

 

Massage tools. Massage tools ready for business

Beth's condition cleared up after just a few days of Ken's therapy. Ken feels that the strap wrench and rubber mallet may be the next hot thing in back care.

February 2 - February 7, 2005

We had hoped to sail to St. Croix to link up with a friend, Mitch, from Waukegan, and his new wife, Robyn. Unfortunately, just as we were ready to set sail, we discovered a small coolant leak in the engine. Since we had another commitment in the British Virgin Islands in a few days, we decided the delay wouldn't leave us enough time to get back, so we aborted the trip. We're hopeful we'll see Mitch and Robyn another time.

Mirabella V

Like most other sailors on the planet, we had read about the newly-launched Mirabella V, the biggest sloop-rigged sailboat ever built. Well, one day just before we left Charlotte Amalie, we looked up and there she was.

Huge Mirabella in harbor at Charlotte Amalie Mirabella -- She is 247 feet long, and 48 feet wide, with a 290 foot mast. For perspective, the "small" sailboat next to her is about 150 feet long.

It's a little hard to convey just how big Mirabella really is, but comparisons help. Eagle's Wings displaces about 22 tons, Mirabella displaces 765 tons. Our "huge" mainsail is 950 sq. feet, hers is 16,760 sq. feet. Our jib is 450 sq. feet, hers is 8915 sq. feet. We draw 6.5 feet, she draws 33 feet with her keel down and 13 feet with it up.

Here's a close up. Notice how the second roller furler unit back from the bow dwarfs the crewperson polishing it. Pretty much every fitting is custom made -- the biggest of its type ever built. Considering how expensive ordinary mass-produced boat fittings are, it's scary to think about what those things must cost. Crew members working on hardware at bow of Mirabella V

Of course there's a downside to all this bigness -- Mirabella's crew told us that they brought her across the Atlantic without ever raising her sails. The huge sails put so much load on all that edge-of-the-envelope equipment, and it's so expensive to replace things that break, that she only raises her sails when she has paying guests on board.

New Friends

Richard and Judith on their boat, St. Raphael While in Charlotte Amalie we also met a young couple, Richard and Judith from Rotterdam.

 

Their boat "St. Raphael" is a tough steel boat built for harsh conditions in the North Sea. Several years ago it broke loose from a mooring and bashed into a concrete seawall. No damage -- all it needed was a new paint job. We couldn't do that. Dutch-built St. Raphael

February 8 - February 10, 2005

As we discussed in a previous update, we had originally planned to blast through the Carribean, visiting many of the scores of islands and countries out here, and then head through Panama in February. Instead we got so comfortable that we didn't even leave the USVIs until February.

But finally, on Feb 9 we took the huge step of leaving our cheap M&Ms supplier (K Mart), to sail about 15 miles to Tortola in the BVIs where we were to meet some friends from Waukegan. We cleared in at Soper's Hole -- uneventful except for counting all those bullets.

The next day we made the short hop to Road Town, Tortola, and linked up with our friends: Mike and Cindy, Tom and Marsha, Dan and Nancy. Between them they were chartering a 50 foot monohull and a 38 foot Catamaran, which they expected to fill with another 4 couples -- for a total of 14 people and two big boats. Quite a production.

Day Sail on Eagle's Wings

Our friends had a few hours before they picked up their charter boats and guests, so we all went out for a daysail on Eagle's Wings. Day sail on Eagle's Wings with Waukegan friends (Ken with Nancy, Dan, Tom, Marsha, Mike, and Cindy)

 

Beth and Ken launching Code 0 sail The light conditions were perfect for flying the Code 0.

People took turns steering the boat -- here Mike (below left) and Dan (below right) give it a whirl. Real sailors steer best with a beer in their hand:

Mike steering Eagle's Wings Dan steering Eagle's Wings

 

Nancy, Marsha, Cindy, Beth relaxing on Eagle's Wings Nancy, Marsha, Cindy, and Beth enjoy some "girl talk".

It was great seeing familiar faces. We even ran into another sailor from Manitowoc, WI who crews on the Santa Cruz 70 racing boats and had seen our boat there.

Exploring Road Town

Road Town is a bustling place and we toured the harbor in our dinghy.

The Moorings charter company has a huge base in Road Town, with hundreds of boats ready to go. Moorings charter base

We were surprised to see an old Manitowoc boat, "Aria", at Road Town. "Aria" had looked absolutely gigantic in Manitowoc, but out here she looked normal.

Spotting Aria, boat we had seen in Waukegan Aria from the front

 

Sister ship 'Sleepy Lady' We also saw another Sundeer 56, "Sleepy Lady".

February 11 - February 12, 2004

After our chartering friends picked up their boats and guests, we all headed toward Norman Island.

We had a little surprise as we made our way out of Road Town -- the wheel started to fall off! Ken quickly spotted the problem -- a circlip that was supposed to hold the wheel in place had moved out of position.

We got it back on without too much embarrassment.

Underway with the wheel off

The Bight at Norman Island has mooring buoys, which cost $20/night. Normally we'd prefer to anchor, but we thought we'd try the moorings. Unfortunately the mooring tackle was in very poor shape and we tried three different moorings before we found one that wasn't chafed halfway through.

We had a fun time snorkeling and partying with our friends -- they definitely are more party animals than we are, but we loosened up a little. The women threatened to paint Beth's toenails and paint a tattoo who knows where -- luckily she escaped that, but we did join them for an evening at the infamous "Willie T" bar at Norman Island. The bar is actually an old schooner converted to a bar.

Women get a free t-shirt if they dive off the boat topless. Much to Ken's disappointment, nobody took up the offer. Beth was not tempted.

With Mike and Marsha as we all take a break from some strenuous dancing at "Willie T's". Relaxing with Mike and Marsha at Willie T's

We saw at least one big difference between charterers and long term cruisers -- our chartering friends were on a tight schedule and they wanted to move every day. They would sail into a harbor, pick up a mooring, snorkel or explore, have a nice meal, drink and dance, and then move somewhere else the next day.

On the other hand, when we get to a new harbor we drop the hook and start looking for the best grocery stores, laundromats, restaurants, hiking, snorkling, hardware stores, marine stores, M&Ms... It takes us about two weeks to think about moving again.

So we had trouble keeping up with our friends. We ended up letting them get ahead, figuring we would catch them again in Virgin Gorda in a few days.

February 13, 2004

The day sail with our friends had wetted our appetite for sailing, and we decided to set out in 20-23 knot winds for Virgin Gorda. The wind was right on the nose the whole way, but we were thrilled with how well the boat sailed upwind, even while towing a dinghy. We were seeing speeds in the 7-8 knot range, going close hauled (not our best point of sail).

Our navigation software tracked our progress up to Virgin Gorda. The red zig zag lines up the diagonal show our 11 tacks up the channel.

That's 11 more tacks than we made on the whole 1500 mile trip from Newport to Bermuda to the USVIs!

We needed the practice.

Track of our many tacks to get to Virgin Gorda

 

Ken hanging on as we blast upwind Ken looks like the Glouster fisherman trying to hang on in boisterous conditions on our way to Virgin Gorda.

 

Ken's mouth is open because he is singing. Fortunately for you, we don't have sound on this website. Ken sailing toward Gorda Sound

 

Ken adjusting dinghy in boisterous seas Ken had to make an adjustment to the dinghy towing line as we were blasting upwind. Being on the stern platform was wet and wild.

February 14 - March 3, 2005

We arrived late in the afternoon and anchored in the huge sound at Virgin Gorda.

Over the course of our stay, we moved several times to keep one step ahead of major wind shifts. You can never be complacent about your anchoring position -- a wind shift could dislodge your anchor or push you into a rocky shore.

The beauty of Gorda Sound. We're the boat in the middle of the picture at the right. The tip of Prickly Pear Island is to the port side of our boat.

There was so much to explore here that we ended up staying more than two weeks.

Anchored in North Sound, off Bitter End

 

J-Boat under sail We saw many spectacular boats, including this J-Boat (sister ship to the boat Ranger we had seen in Newport).

Our friends arrived on their charter boats and Tom and Dan jumped right into the thick of the action by participating in the Wednesday night beer can race sponsored by the Bitter End Yacht Club. Our friends had never raced Lasers before, but they held their own. Here's Tom going downwind (left below), Dan going upwind (right below):

Tom going downwind in race at Bitter End Dan racing laser in Bitter End beer can race

The racing looked like so much fun that we joined a similar race later in the week on a 2-person Hobie Wave.

Beth with Hobie Wave before racing

We started off thinking that the Wave was a toy compared to a "real" cat like our old Nacra. But we ended up liking the simple, well-balanced and forgiving Wave.

And racing is always fun if everybody's in the same kind of boat.

The Baths

We visited Virgin Gorda's famous rock formation called "The Baths". Huge boulders as big as houses make a labyrinth of pools and caves along the shore.

The boulders are graceful, and imposing. Boulders and boats off The Baths

 

Boaters landing near beach at the Baths

The visitors, on the other hand, were not always so graceful. Here's a three man dingy with seven people on board, trying to pick up a mooring off the Baths.

 

 

Ken readying himself for boulder scrambling challenge We hiked out on the boulders to get away from the crowds on the beaches, and eventually got into some really tough climbing. (This always seems to happen when Ken is along.)

Ken finally left Beth behind while he attempted the summit.

Ken scaling  boulder Ken on top of boulder

 

Ken scaling really steep boulder Made it to the top!

We also explored the caverns and caves. Sure wouldn't want to be here in an earthquake!

Beth hoping the rock is firmly lodged Boulder precariously wedged at the Baths

 

We keep seeing wrecked boats. Here's the remains of somebody's dream, stove in among the rocks.

Really makes you want to be careful.

Remnants of wrecked boat at the Baths

 

Rooster meandering through the bushes

After our hike at the Baths, we walked to Spanish Town. We saw something we'd grown accustomed to in the Virgin Islands -- lots of chickens and roosters running free. No factory chickens around here -- these are "happy chickens".

They keep coming home because they get fed. And because they haven't figured out the endgame.

Hiking on Virgin Gorda - Bitter End/Eustatia Sound

We took several hikes over the course of our stay, where we saw a variety of interesting plant and insect life, along with gorgeous views.

Some of the mangrove trees almost look alive. If you've seen "Lord of the Rings", you'd swear you were in the land of the "Ents". Beth with Ent-like mangrove

 

Cactus spider waiting for tasty meal Ken wanted Beth to stick her hand near this spider for scaling purposes. Beth was hoping the spider didn't try to make her into lunch.

Some of the prickly cactus plants had odd shoots on top. Looks like the top of Ken's head.

Cactus showing its stuff Balding cactus top with flower

 

Cactus with oversized appendage No comment.

Other cactus plants were huge with extremely tough leaves and very sharp spines.

Large cactus with lots of pointy ends Another large pointy cactus

We were struck by the very bold, colorful flowers around the island.

Beautiful red flower Purple and white flowers on Virgin Gorda

Several times during our stay in Virgin Gorda we spotted gigantic caterpillars.

Very large caterpillar Monster caterpillar enjoying lunch

 

Giant moth we found on boat Later we found this moth on our boat. We guessed this might be the grown up version of our monster caterpillar.

 

Always we were struck with the amazing beauty of Virgin Gorda and the surrounding reefs. You couldn't find a bad view anywhere. Drop dead gorgeous views of Eustatia Sound

 

Breathtaking view of Berchers Bay, looking northeast Looking northeast from Virgin Gorda over Berchers Bay. Biras Creek Resort pictured here by the beach.

Drug Boat

Hiking along the beach toward Biras Creek we discovered the remains of a fairly recent wreck. Ken with boat wreck in Berchers Bay near Biras Creek

 

Contemplating winch from boat wreck It was eerie finding boat parts, like this winch, strewn about the beach.

We were very sobered thinking about what it must have been like to be bashed up against the rocks in a boat. Not a happy thought at all.

Here are some other boat parts and artifacts we discovered:

Transom structure from wrecked boat Parts from sanitation system of wrecked boat

 

Handheld radio from wrecked boat Electric drill from wrecked boat

 

Cocoa mug from wrecked boat Beth was particularly distressed upon finding this hot cocoa mug from the wrecked boat.

Then some fishermen came by and told us the story of the wreck. The boat had been running drugs about three years ago when it hit the reef at night. The crew made it to shore, but instead of heading for the hills, they tried to save their cargo. They were in the process of hiding it in the bush when the Coast Guard showed up and nabbed them. They are still in prison.

The fishermen claim the boat had millions of dollars of drugs on board and was the single largest capture ever made on the island.

Wouldn't you think they could have afforded a chart plotter?

Hiking Prickly Pear Island

We had anchored right next to desolate Prickly Pear Island, and we decided to explore it. We had seen some ferral goats foraging along the shore and we knew of some inland ponds which might harbor interesting birds.

As soon as we landed on shore, the temperature seemed to jump 20 degrees. It sure made us appreciate the comfortable conditions out on the water.

Sand crab burrows We saw thousands of holes in the ground and noticed tiny crabs darting in and out. These creatures made a nice meal for birds.

 

Very large hermit crabs crawled around on the ground and in trees. Large hermit crab

 

We also saw several abandoned crab shells. The crabs molt and leave their ghostly shell behind. Empty crab shell

The wind and waves carved beautiful rock formations on the shoreline..

Sculpted rock on Prickly Pear Island Interesting patterns carved into rocks along shore

After walking along the shore for a while, we came to an impasse and couldn't continue without getting wet, so we decided to head up, following goat trails.

We surprised this goat along the trail -- after deciding we were not goats, she bolted off into the brush. Surprising a goat on goat trail

 

Beth looking down drop-off from goat trail

The problem with goat trails is that they are made by goats. They're ok if you can leap from rock to rock like superman and don't mind crawling under the cacti.

We eventually decided that goat had been right -- we AREN'T GOATS.

 

Back down on the flats, we were startled when a little baby goat came bounding up to Ken. Then he realized Ken wasn't his mother and looked very confused.

Frankly, if he was dumb enough to mistake Ken for his mother, he's probably going to be confused most of his life.

Baby goat realizing we were not goats

We watched the baby for quite a while, but the mother never showed up. Beth wanted to report her for child abandonment. It sure was hard to leave him.

Baby goat checking us out Baby goat searching for his family

New Friends

We met several cruisers in Virgin Gorda. One couple, Bill and Margo on the boat "Stitches", were from Fond du Lac, Wisconsin but kept their boat in Manitowoc and knew our friends at Manitowoc Marina.

While at anchor, a charter boat circled around us and yelled "Ahoy!". We were amazed to find the boat crewed by Dave and Donna from Minnesota, a couple we had met on Mackinaw Island in August of last year. They recognized our boat!

Beth with new cruising friends, Tom and Paulette

We also met Tom and Paulette on "Snowdrift", who visit the Caribbean every year from Maine. They love to hike and we took an excursion with them along a newly constructed road at the end of Virgin Gorda.

 

We even saw some whales breaking the surface of the bay as we hiked along. They were too far for a picture, so you'll have to settle for a picture of us! Beth and Ken on newly cut road on Virgin Gorda

 

We hiked as far as we could, until the road was blocked by an enormous rock crushing machine that was busy pulverizing rock to improve the road.

This land has been subdivided into lots going for upwards of $1 million. Next time we are here this will probably all be developed.

Machine crushing boulders on road at Bitter End

People have told us that the islands are undergoing tremendous change. The islands were almost totally undeveloped until the late 1970's. Now tourism (cruise ships and boat charters) has created a huge incentive for building.

There are both good and bad sides to all this development, but we are glad we are doing this trip now -- these islands could be very different in 10 years.

Hiking Up Gorda Peak

Tom and Paulette encouraged us to take some time and hike up Gorda Peak, the tallest point on Virgin Gorda.

To get to Gorda Peak, you must hike for several miles along a paved road until you reach the trail head. We started from Gun Bay and worked our way up along the road.

Virgin Gorda post office On our way to the Peak, we passed by the tiniest post office we'd ever seen. The road here is incredibly steep -- so steep that our heels didn't touch the ground as we trudged up the road. We had to walk on tiptoes!

We spotted some domesticated goats while hiking along the road. This goat was pretty smart, looking both ways before crossing the road!

Goat checking out traffic to the right Goat looking for traffic from the left

 

The view from atop Gorda Peak was breathtaking. We were very tired, but it was nice and cool at the top and we stayed awhile to enjoy the stunning scenery. Spectacular view from Gorda Peak

Provisions -- When It Rains, It Pours

We had a kind of loaves and fishes thing happen to our pantry in the last two weeks of February.

Ken loaded down with groceries from shopping trip in Road Town First, we made a BIG shopping trip in Tortola. Here's Ken doing his imitation of a pack horse on the way back from the grocery store.

Then we met with our charterboat friends from Chicago. Everybody carries tons of provisions on a charter -- and since they don't want to run out, they carry a bunch of extras. So the staff at the Moorings gets piles of leftover food as parting gifts. Our friends gave their leftovers to us instead, so we ended up getting a lot of spare provisions.

Here's the haul we took.

Gifts of provisions from our chartering friends

Next, some friends we had met on our way to Bermuda (John and Susan Bell), decided to quit their job as managers of the Hinckley 53 "Direct Sail" after a dispute with the owner. They had about six months worth of provisions on board, which they couldn't take back to their home in Maine on the airplane. So they gave it all to us...

Gift of provisions from John and Susan Food from "Direct Sail".

Anyway, even after making donations to a church on St. John, we still have food stuffed under every floorboard on the boat. And Ken has developed a taste for Glenlevit, having inherited two bottles. But, can you imagine -- not to sound ungrateful -- there wasn't one bag of M&Ms in any of this stuff?

Innovations in Cooking

Susan from "Direct Sail" told us about a great bread machine she had at home. You put in the ingredients -- which takes ten minutes -- and then turn it on. That's it. We thought it sounded great and ordered a machine. We tried it for the first time while in Virgin Gorda.

Little Suzy boatmaker

The machine mixes the ingredients, kneads the bread, lets it rise, and bakes it. Violia -- homemade bread. Also, it takes two minutes to clean. Why didn't we discover this before?

It's particularly nice out here, where good fresh bread can be hard to find and keep.

Beth has also discovered a great way to make stews and slow cooked meals without electricity and without putting much heat into the boat. She uses a "thermal pot" -- a stainless steel pot that fits into an insulated housing. She can slow cook a meal by getting the food hot, and then then putting the pot into the housing, where it stays boiling hot for at least two hours. After two hours she heats the food again to boiling (takes about 2 minutes) -- and then puts it back into the housing. She can keep this up for six or eight hours.

Dinner cooking itself.

The slow cooker is on the left and the breadmaker on the right. The electricity is for the bread machine.

Thermal pot and breadmaker in action

Maintenance

Amazingly enough, there was only one uncheduled maintenance issue in February -- a small coolant leak on the Yanmar that was pretty easy to fix. Otherwise nothing broke. All we did was change the oil in the genset a few times, clean some winches and upgrade the battery cables on the genset from 2/0 to 4/0 to reduce the heat and voltage drop in the engine room.

Of course, nothing is simple. Beth's winch cleaning bogged down when some stainless screws bonded to the bronze winch plate and refused to release. Ken finally had to heat them with a propane torch to get them loose.

Ken getting ready to loosen winch with torch Ken using torch to loosen frozen winch

And swaging the terminal ends onto 4/0 battery cable is not so easy. This cable is so big and heavy that Ken almost couldn't lift 25 feet of it. Marine stores in the islands won't do the swaging because it's too big for their equipment, and because they don't want the liability. If one of the terminals pulls loose, the 200-300 amp load on the cable would burn the boat up in a flash.

So we used our handy hammer-operated swage tool. Swaging anvil with 4/0 cable

Ken using full body swings to make the swage:

Ken getting ready to make swage Swinging away

 

Finished swage The finished swages seemed very strong and secure.

Last Days in Virgin Gorda

We knew we couldn't stay in Virgin Gorda forever -- but it sure was a beautiful place. Gorgeous sunset in Virgin Gorda

We were treated to some elaborate fireworks on one of the last evenings:

Fireworks at Bitter End Fireworks at Bitter End Fireworks at Bitter End

Our plan is to return to the U.S. Virgin Islands (we need to pick up some boat parts) and then think about continuing to move down island.